Tijuana Taco Company, Branford, CT

On the streets of New Haven, you'll be able to find any number of street food carts within a stone's throw of Broadway or Chapel. The multicolored, multicultural carts are a staple to the city- think food cart and you think of urban landscapes and gyros from a truck. But now they have infiltrated suburbia with delicious flavors on quiet streets, thanks to the efforts of Branford restauranteurs, the Franco-Camachos.Swagger and I tried this lone food truck back in December on a cold, frosty day. The cart lies parallel to its big, upscale sister, The Suburban, in Branford's center, and the two siblings couldn't be any more different. Where The Suburban is haute, Tijuana Taco is hot, and where The Suburban is fancy, Tijuana is rustic. But how did it taste? I ordered two carnitas tacos with the works- a healthy topping of black beans, salsa fresca, guacamole, cheese, crema, lettuce, and chipotle hot sauce. Maybe the two aren't so different after all.Unfortunately Tijuana Taco was out of their special filling, turkey mole, when we arrived, strange for noon on a Tuesday, but I dealt with it. The fillings are standard, but prepared well. While I appreciated the flavors and homemade ingredients, there were just so many and so much of each component that the tortillas swelled under the weight and burst apart in my hands. The toppings seemed to mask the real problem- a scant helping of meat underneath all the frippery.I ordered tacos because I wanted to avoid the dreaded burrito pitfall and its filler ingredients that charge higher prices while simultaneously covering up for less protein. With this dish, it felt like I'd paid burrito prices for burrito levels of topping overload and was less satisfied than I thought. I ended up eating my tacos like a salad and picking listlessly at the sides. Shoulda gone the Swagger route. That man does enjoy a steak burrito. "Oh man," he says, hefting it up. "Feels like I'm eating a baby."Next time, I'd try their burrito. Don't go to this taco truck if you're expecting the bare necessities. They pile it on pretty thick here. Even though this wasn't my favorite truck, I find the novelty of taco trucks in Branford irresistibly intriguing. I'm curious to see what else will pop up in the next few months and I look forward to returning this summer to try their new restaurants and older ones. I have high hopes and high expectations. Expect reviews!

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